La Rioja is a land of wines, yes, but also of robust, honest gastronomy deeply rooted in the vegetable garden and the countryside. Few corners of Spain concentrate such a varied culinary richness in so little space: from the seasonal vegetables that sprout in the Ebro valleys to the lamb chops grilled over vine cuttings, through hearty stews that have been warming winters for centuries.
If you stay at Casa Rural Río Tirón, you are in the heart of La Rioja Alta, halfway between Haro, Logroño and Santo Domingo de la Calzada. A privileged position to explore Riojan gastronomy in all its forms: village restaurants with time-honoured recipes, legendary pinchos, the occasional Michelin star and, of course, the chance to cook yourself in our fully equipped kitchen or on the garden barbecue.
“In La Rioja, you eat like in few other places. And the best part is that here quality doesn’t come at city prices: it comes with village flavour.”
Traditional Riojan dishes you must try
Riojan cuisine is product-driven cooking, without artifice or pretension. Every dish tells the story of this land: the generous vegetable gardens of the Ebro valley, the flocks from the mountains and the vineyards that cover everything. These are the essential dishes you cannot miss:
Patatas a la riojana
The most emblematic dish of the region. A seemingly simple stew —broken potatoes (torn by hand, never cut, so they release starch), Riojan chorizo, choricero pepper, onion and garlic— that in its simplicity conceals a technique refined over generations. The secret lies in the chorizo: it must be authentic Riojan, semi-cured, with La Rioja paprika. You will find it in virtually any restaurant in the area, from the humblest bar to the most elegant dining rooms. Approximate price: €8–14 per portion.
Chuletillas al sarmiento
If there is one dish that defines the union between vineyard and table, this is it. The lamb chops are grilled over sarmientos —the dry branches from vine pruning— which burn with a lively, fast and intense flame. The result is meat that is juicy inside, lightly smoked outside, with an unmistakable aroma that only vine cuttings can provide. They are eaten with your hands, one after another, generally accompanied by salad and good bread. At Casa Rural Río Tirón you can prepare them yourself on the garden barbecue: you just need to buy the chops and vine cuttings from any butcher in Haro or Santo Domingo. Restaurant price: €14–22 per portion.
Pochas a la riojana
Pochas are white beans harvested fresh, while still tender, between late August and October. Their texture is creamy, almost buttery, completely different from dried beans. They are stewed slowly with garden vegetables —tomato, green pepper, onion— and sometimes with quail or chorizo. It is a seasonal dish: if you come in September or October, you absolutely must try it. Outside the season, many restaurants prepare them with preserved pochas, which are also good, but it is not the same.
Pimientos asados del Piquillo and del Cristal
La Rioja is one of Spain’s great pepper producers. The pimientos del piquillo, small and triangular, are roasted over embers, peeled by hand and served alone, stuffed with cod, meat or seafood. The pimientos del cristal, larger and thinner, are lightly fried and served as a side dish or as the star of the plate. Both feature on the menu of any self-respecting Riojan restaurant.
Menestra de verduras
The Riojan menestra is a hymn to the Ebro vegetable garden. Artichokes, peas, asparagus, baby broad beans, chard, cardoons... each vegetable cooked separately to respect its perfect point, then brought together with a gentle sofrito. Unlike the Navarrese menestra, the Riojan version is lighter and lets each vegetable shine. In spring, when the garden bursts with life, it is a sublime dish.
Caparrones de Anguiano
Caparrones are red beans, with their own denomination of origin, from Anguiano, a village in the Riojan mountains. They are stewed with their “sacramentos” —chorizo, morcilla, ribs, ear and snout of pork— in a dense, comforting stew that is pure winter energy. It is the perfect dish after a hike in the mountains or a day of wine tourism on a cold day.
Calle Laurel in Logroño: the cathedral of pinchos
No gastronomic trip to La Rioja is complete without a visit to Calle Laurel in Logroño, about 45 minutes by car from Casa Rural Río Tirón. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most famous food streets in all of Spain: a maze of narrow lanes in the old town where more than 60 bars are packed together, each with its star pincho.
The tradition is simple: you go from bar to bar, order the house pincho (each bar has its speciality) and pair it with a Rioja wine or a zurracapón. The price per pincho is around €2–3.50, and with 5 or 6 stops you have more than enough for dinner. These are the must-visit bars:
- Bar Soriano — The grilled mushroom with prawn. Probably the most iconic pincho in all of Logroño. There is always a queue, but it is well worth it.
- Blanco y Negro — The oldest bar on the street. Its little anchovy sandwich with green pepper is an unbeatable classic.
- Bar Sebas — The tortillas. An institution. Order the potato one or the prawn one with a spicy twist.
- El Muro — The “cojonudo”: a small roll filled with chorizo mince, quail egg and pepper. Hearty and delicious.
- Bar Ángel — Grilled ear and snout. For the brave. If you dare, you won’t regret it.
- Tastavin — Peppers stuffed with seafood and an excellent wine list for pairing.
Practical tip: park in the underground car park at the Espolón or in the Vara de Rey area. On weekdays there are fewer people. At weekends and bank holidays Calle Laurel fills to the brim, but that is also part of the experience.
Michelin-starred restaurants in La Rioja
La Rioja is the autonomous community with the most Michelin stars per capita in all of Spain. Six restaurants hold eight stars between them, and several are a stone’s throw from Casa Rural Río Tirón. If you want to treat yourself to a gastronomic experience, these are your options:
Nublo (Haro) — 1 Michelin star
The closest Michelin-starred restaurant to Tormantos, just 20 minutes away. Chef Miguel Caño, a Haro native trained at Mugaritz with Andoni Luis Aduriz, cooks exclusively with fire and embers: no electricity, no gas, no microwave. Everything is prepared in a wood-fired oven, on a grill, an iron griddle and over embers. The result is rooted, primitive yet sophisticated cuisine, with local produce as the absolute star. They offer two tasting menus: the Menú Nublo (weekday lunch) and the Menú Experiencia (16 courses, weekends and holidays). Price: €85–145 per person. Booking essential.
Venta Moncalvillo (Daroca de Rioja) — 2 Michelin stars
40 minutes from Tormantos, the Echapresto brothers have been winning over critics for years with cuisine based on wild foraging and mountain produce. Two Michelin stars and a unique experience for lovers of haute cuisine with roots.
El Portal de Echaurren (Ezcaray) — 2 Michelin stars
45 minutes away, in the beautiful village of Ezcaray, Francis Paniego leads this benchmark of Riojan haute cuisine with two stars. The first restaurant in La Rioja to achieve a second star (2013). If you are looking for a memorable gastronomic experience, this is a safe bet.
Ikaro and Kiro Sushi (Logroño) — 1 star each
In Logroño, Ikaro (Carolina Sánchez and Iñaki Murua) offers creative cuisine with Riojan produce, while Kiro Sushi (Félix Jiménez) fuses Japanese tradition with local ingredients. Both are 45 minutes from the rural house.
The wines: the soul of the Riojan table
You cannot talk about Riojan gastronomy without talking about wine, because here wine does not accompany the dish: it is part of it. The Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja is the most prestigious in Spain, and La Rioja Alta produces some of the finest reds in the country. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo... and increasingly extraordinary whites from Viura and Malvasía.
If you want to delve deeper into the world of Riojan wine, we recommend our guide to the 10 best wineries in Haro and our wine tourism in La Rioja page. And if you visit in late June, do not miss the Batalla del Vino, where thousands of people throw red wine at each other on the cliffs of Bilibio.
For pairing with traditional dishes, a quick guide:
- Patatas a la riojana: a young, fruity Crianza (Muga Crianza, Viña Alberdi).
- Chuletillas al sarmiento: a full-bodied Reserva (Viña Ardanza, Imperial Reserva).
- Pochas and menestra: a Viura white or a fresh rosé.
- Caparrones: a Crianza or Reserva with soft tannins.
- Pinchos on Calle Laurel: whatever you order, the waiter will recommend the wine.
Markets and local produce
If you enjoy cooking —and at Casa Rural Río Tirón you have a fully equipped kitchen to do so— these are the best places to buy top-quality local produce:
Mercado de San Blas (Logroño)
Logroño’s food market, inaugurated in 1930, is the temple of fresh Riojan produce. Freshly picked vegetables from the garden, artisan chorizos, Cameros cheeses, vegetable preserves, olive oil... all from local producers. Open Monday to Saturday mornings. It is worth going early, when the stalls are overflowing with produce.
Mercado de Haro
On Tuesdays and Saturdays, from 9:00 to 14:00, the weekly market sets up on Calle Siervas de Jesús in Haro with stalls selling seasonal vegetables, fruit, cured meats, cheeses and local products. Smaller than the one in Logroño, but with village charm and direct contact with the producer.
Butchers and village shops
In Haro, Santo Domingo de la Calzada and the smaller villages you will find traditional butchers where you can buy lamb chops, authentic Riojan chorizo, rice morcilla and homemade cured meats at very reasonable prices. Ask for the chorizo de Ezcaray or the morcilla dulce de Haro, two local gems. In the village bakeries, the hogaza bread and the fardelejos (puff pastry cakes filled with almond and lemon, typical of Arnedo) are irresistible temptations.
Wineries with shops
Virtually all the wineries in Haro have their own shop where you can buy wine at cellar-door prices. It is common to be able to take home bottles at a discount after a visit. Muga, López de Heredia, CVNE, La Rioja Alta... all offer this option.
Where to eat near Tormantos
From Casa Rural Río Tirón you have excellent gastronomic options just a few minutes’ drive away. These are our recommendations, tried and tested by our guests:
In Haro (20 min)
- Restaurante Terete — Founded in the 1870s, four generations prepare the same suckling lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven. A temple of Riojan roast. Average price: €35–50. Booking recommended.
- Restaurante Beethoven — Classic Riojan restaurant since 1941. Roast suckling lamb, chuletón steak, cod with vegetables and daily stew. Rustic and authentic atmosphere. Average price: €40–45. Closed Wednesday evenings and Thursdays.
- Nublo — Haro’s Michelin star (described above). For a special occasion.
- Calle de la Herradura — Haro’s “Calle Laurel”: a street of pinchos and bars for hopping from one to the next. Quieter and more authentic than Logroño, with excellent quality.
In Santo Domingo de la Calzada (15 min)
- Restaurante Los Caballeros — The only restaurant in Santo Domingo recommended by the Michelin Guide. Family cooking with local produce: cod in all its forms, lamb and grass-fed Riojan beef. Calle Mayor, 56. Average price: €30–45. Closed on Mondays.
- La Cancela — Great value for money with authentic Riojan flavours. Calle Mayor, 51. Ideal for eating well without spending too much.
- Parador de Santo Domingo — Located in the former Hospital de San Juan de Dios, it offers Riojan cuisine in an exceptional historic setting. A little more expensive, but the experience is worth it.
In Casalarreina and Tirgo (10–15 min)
The neighbouring villages to Tormantos have their own bars and restaurants with daily set menus at village prices —between €12 and 18 with starter, main course, dessert, bread and wine included. Perfect for day-to-day dining during your stay.
Cooking at Casa Rural Río Tirón: your private txoko
One of the great advantages of staying in a rural house rather than a hotel is that you can cook at your own pace. And at Casa Rural Río Tirón, this possibility becomes an experience in itself.
The house has a fully equipped kitchen with everything you need to prepare anything from a leisurely breakfast to a Riojan feast for all 14 guests. Ceramic hob, oven, microwave, large fridge, coffee maker, toaster, complete kitchenware... everything you need.
But the best part is outside: in the garden you have a barbecue where you can grill chuletillas al sarmiento under the Riojan stars, and inside the house the txoko with fireplace —that intimate and cosy space where you gather to cook, eat, drink and chat, following the Basque and Riojan tradition of gastronomic societies.
Our favourite plan for food-loving guests:
- Morning: visit the Barrio de la Estación in Haro with wine tasting and purchases.
- Midday: stop at the butcher to buy lamb chops, chorizo and whatever takes your fancy.
- Afternoon: visit a village (Santo Domingo, Ezcaray, Briones) and buy fresh vegetables.
- Evening: chuletillas al sarmiento barbecue in the garden, salad with garden produce and the freshly bought bottles. After-dinner conversation by the txoko fireplace.
“Many of our guests tell us that the barbecue dinner, with Haro wine and the fireplace lit, was the best moment of their holiday.”
For large groups (up to 14 people), the rural house becomes a true private gastronomic society. You can organise themed dinners, cooking competitions, wine tastings with bottles bought at the wineries... The possibilities are endless. And when you are done, everyone retires to their room with private bathroom without needing to drive.