Santo Domingo de la Calzada: where the hen sang after being roasted
There are few towns in Spain where legend and reality coexist as naturally as in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. This small Riojan city of around 6,000 inhabitants, situated in the heart of the Camino de Santiago, keeps inside its cathedral something you will not find in any other church in the world: a live rooster and hen, enclosed in a Gothic stone henhouse, that have been crowing for centuries to commemorate a medieval miracle.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is much more than that extraordinary anecdote. It is a key stage on the Camino de Santiago, a town with a walled medieval old quarter, a Parador Nacional housed in a former pilgrim hospital, and a gastronomy that reflects the very best of La Rioja Alta. If you are staying at Casa Rural Río Tirón in Tormantos, it is just a 15-minute drive, making it an essential day trip during your stay.
“Santo Domingo de la Calzada, donde cantó la gallina después de asada.” — Traditional Spanish saying (Where the hen sang after being roasted)
The Cathedral and the miracle of the rooster and the hen
The Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the heart of the town and the reason thousands of pilgrims and tourists stop here every year. Built between the 12th and 18th centuries, it combines Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements, and was declared a Site of Cultural Interest. Its detached bell tower —separate from the main body of the cathedral— is the tallest in La Rioja at 69 metres, and dominates the city’s skyline from every approach.
But what makes this cathedral unique in all the world is its Gothic henhouse: a carved stone cage, located opposite the saint’s sepulchre, where a white rooster and hen permanently reside. The birds are replaced every few weeks (the townspeople take turns donating them), and their crowing echoes through the naves of the church, creating an absolutely singular atmosphere. It is not unusual for the rooster to interrupt a mass with its crowing —and for the congregation to celebrate with a smile.
The legend of the hanged pilgrim
The presence of the birds in the cathedral dates back to a medieval legend that forms part of the imagery of the Camino de Santiago. According to tradition, in the 14th century a family of German pilgrims —father, mother and son— stayed at an inn in Santo Domingo during their pilgrimage to Compostela. The innkeeper’s daughter fell in love with the young pilgrim, named Hugonell, but he rejected her advances. Scorned, the young woman hid a silver cup in the lad’s luggage and reported him for theft.
Hugonell was condemned to hang according to the laws of the time. His parents, heartbroken, continued the pilgrimage to Santiago to pray for their son’s soul. On the way back, passing through Santo Domingo again, they approached the gallows and discovered to their amazement that their son was still alive, supported by Santo Domingo de la Calzada himself, who had kept him alive because he was innocent.
The parents rushed to tell the miracle to the city’s magistrate, who was about to sit down to dinner. The magistrate, sceptical, replied with a phrase that has gone down in history: “That young man is as alive as this rooster and hen I am about to eat.” At that very moment, the roasted birds leapt off the plate, regrew their feathers and began to crow. The magistrate, convinced of the miracle, ordered the pilgrim’s immediate release.
Ever since, the cathedral has always kept a live rooster and hen inside as a permanent testament to the miracle. The legend is depicted in altarpieces, paintings and carvings throughout the church, and gave rise to the popular saying that every Spaniard knows.
Practical visit: the cathedral is open every day from 10:00 to 19:00 (reduced hours in winter). General admission is €7 and includes the cloister, the henhouse, the crypt and the cathedral museum. Pilgrims with a credential pay a reduced rate. Do not miss the main altarpiece by Damián Forment (16th century), a Renaissance masterpiece carved in alabaster.
Santo Domingo and the Camino de Santiago
Santo Domingo de la Calzada would not be what it is without the Camino de Santiago. The city itself owes its existence to the saint who gives it its name: Domingo García (1019–1109), a hermit born in Viloria de Rioja who dedicated his life to easing the passage of pilgrims through this part of La Rioja.
In the 11th century, the Jacobean route crossed a forested, marshy and dangerous area between Nájera and Redecilla del Camino. Domingo, who had been rejected as a monk at both the monasteries of Valvanera and San Millán de la Cogolla, decided to serve God in another way: he settled beside the River Oja and began to build infrastructure for pilgrims. He cleared forests, built a bridge over the River Oja (which still exists), laid a causeway —hence the name “de la Calzada” (of the Causeway)— and erected a hospital and a church that would become the seed of the present-day city.
Today, Santo Domingo is stage number 10 of the Camino Francés (the most popular route) counting from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Pilgrims usually arrive from Nájera (21 km) and continue to Belorado (22 km). The town offers several pilgrim hostels, both public and private, as well as hotels and rural houses in the surrounding area. If you would like to know more about the Jacobean route through La Rioja, see our Camino de Santiago guide.
The old town: walls, streets and squares
Santo Domingo preserves one of the best-kept medieval old quarters in La Rioja. The urban core follows the original layout of the Camino de Santiago, which crosses the town from east to west along the Calle Mayor, flanked by stone mansions with coats of arms, wrought-iron balconies and arcades where pilgrims found shade and commerce.
The medieval walls from the 14th century survive in several stretches, especially on the southern side of the old town. Although they no longer completely surround the city, the remaining sections give a clear sense of the defensive and commercial importance Santo Domingo held in the Middle Ages. One of the most photogenic stretches is found next to the Torreón (tower), which today houses temporary exhibitions.
The Plaza de España (also known as Plaza del Santo) is the nerve centre. Here you will find the Town Hall, the cathedral and the former pilgrim hospital (now the Parador). It is the perfect spot to sit on a terrace, order a coffee and watch pilgrims come and go with their backpacks and walking sticks. In summer, the square comes alive with music and markets.
Do not miss the Paseo del Espolón either, a pleasant tree-lined garden on the southern edge of the old town, with views over the Oja river valley and the Riojan plain. It is the locals’ favourite place for an evening stroll, and from here you can enjoy memorable sunsets with the Sierra de la Demanda as a backdrop.
The Parador Nacional: sleeping in a pilgrim hospital
The Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada occupies the former Pilgrim Hospital founded by the saint himself in the 11th century. It is one of the most distinctive paradores in the Spanish network: a historic building where the rooms feature stone arches, vaulted ceilings and an atmosphere that connects directly with nine centuries of Jacobean hospitality.
The original hospital took in pilgrims who arrived exhausted after crossing the mountains between Navarre and La Rioja. It offered free board, food and medical care, a tradition that was maintained for centuries. In the 20th century, the building was restored and converted into a Parador, preserving the spirit of welcome while adding all modern comforts.
Even if you do not stay at the Parador, it is well worth popping in for a drink at its café or dining in its restaurant. The dining room occupies the former pilgrim hall, with pointed arches and lighting that invites you to imagine what it would have been like to arrive here exhausted after days on the road and find shelter, hot food and a clean bed.
The Festivals of Santo Domingo: the “Gracias del Santo”
The Fiestas del Santo are held around 12 May, the patron saint’s feast day, and are among the most distinctive in La Rioja. The central celebration is the “Gracias del Santo”, a procession in which townspeople give thanks for favours received during the year, carrying offerings and candles through the old town streets.
The most spectacular procession is the “Santo en andas”: an image of the saint is carried by residents through the cobbled streets while the cathedral bells ring without ceasing. The processions include giants and big-heads, traditional dancers, and the massive participation of the calceatenses (as the inhabitants of Santo Domingo are known). The streets are adorned with embroidered bedspreads on the balconies, and the atmosphere is a blend of devotion and popular celebration.
During the festivals the “Procesión de la Rueda” (Procession of the Wheel) is also held, in which an enormous wooden wheel decorated with bread is paraded through the city, symbolising the saint’s charity towards pilgrims. If your visit coincides with the May festivals, do not miss them: they are a window into traditional Spain that is increasingly hard to find.
What to eat in Santo Domingo de la Calzada
The gastronomy of Santo Domingo reflects the richness of La Rioja Alta and the Jacobean tradition of feeding the traveller well. These are the dishes and restaurants you should not miss:
- Patatas a la riojana: the most typical dish of the region, with Riojan chorizo, choricero peppers and a broth that begs for bread. Every restaurant has its own version, and they are all good.
- Chuletillas de cordero al sarmiento: lamb chops grilled over dried vine branches, with an unmistakable smoky flavour. It is the star dish of Riojan celebrations.
- Pochas con codorniz: fresh Riojan beans stewed with quail, a seasonal dish (September–November) that is worth the trip on its own.
- Pimientos asados: piquillo peppers or choricero peppers roasted over wood, peeled by hand, with a drizzle of olive oil. Perfect simplicity.
- Caparrones: red beans from Anguiano, stewed with chorizo, black pudding and bacon. Hearty and comforting, especially in winter.
Among the recommended restaurants, the Parador Restaurant offers creative Riojan cuisine in a historic setting. For something more casual, the Calle Mayor has several pintxo and tapas bars where you can eat well at a very reasonable price. The atmosphere is relaxed and authentic —no tourist traps here.
Food tip: if you are in the area, do not miss trying the wines of the D.O.Ca. Rioja. Santo Domingo lies in the heart of Rioja Alta, the sub-region that produces some of Spain’s most elegant reds. A local crianza with lamb chops al sarmiento is a perfect pairing.
How to get there from Tormantos
If you are staying at Casa Rural Río Tirón, getting to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a breeze. It is just a 15-minute drive along the LR-201, a quiet local road that runs through the cereal fields and vineyards of the Riojan plain. The route is straightforward:
- From Tormantos, take the LR-201 heading south towards Leiva.
- Continue along the same road past Leiva and Herrameluri.
- Within a few kilometres you will reach Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The most convenient car park is beside the Paseo del Espolón, a two-minute walk from the cathedral.
You can also arrive via the N-120 (Logroño–Burgos), which passes along the edge of the town. If you are coming from Haro, it is about 30 minutes on the N-124 and the LR-111. Santo Domingo also has a bus stop on the Logroño–Burgos line, although services are limited.
Perfect plan: leave Casa Rural Río Tirón in the morning, visit the cathedral and stroll through the old town, have lunch at one of the Calle Mayor restaurants, and return to the house in the afternoon to enjoy the txoko with its fireplace. Half a day is enough to see the essentials, though if you want to explore in depth you could easily spend the whole day without getting bored.
Other nearby towns worth visiting
Santo Domingo de la Calzada lies in a privileged part of La Rioja, surrounded by towns and cities with exceptional heritage. Make the most of your stay at Casa Rural Río Tirón to discover these destinations, all within 45 minutes:
Ezcaray (25 min)
Heading up the River Oja towards the Sierra de la Demanda, Ezcaray is one of the most charming villages in La Rioja. Stone mansions with wooden frameworks, the 18th-century Royal Cloth Factory, the Valdezcaray ski resort in winter, and a top-tier gastronomic offering (the restaurant El Portal de Echaurren holds a Michelin star). It is perfect for a morning stroll followed by lunch at one of its grill houses.
Haro (30 min)
The capital of Rioja wine is half an hour away. Its Barrio de la Estación (Station Quarter) has more century-old wineries than anywhere else in the world: Muga, CVNE, López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta... Combine a morning winery visit with a pintxo crawl around the Herradura and you will have a perfect day. And if you come in June, do not miss the Battle of Wine.
San Millán de la Cogolla (20 min)
San Millán de la Cogolla is, literally, the birthplace of the Castilian language. In the Monastery of Suso (6th century), the Glosas Emilianenses were written —the earliest known annotations in the Castilian and Basque languages, dating from the 10th century. Beside it, the Monastery of Yuso (11th century, rebuilt in the 16th) is an impressive monastic complex housing a library with priceless medieval codices. Both monasteries have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. The guided tour of Suso (compulsory, advance booking required) is an unforgettable experience: walking through the caves where monks copied manuscripts a thousand years ago is genuinely spine-tingling.
Why stay at Casa Rural Río Tirón
Casa Rural Río Tirón, in the village of Tormantos, is the ideal base for exploring Santo Domingo de la Calzada and the whole of La Rioja Alta. These are the advantages our guests value most:
- 15 minutes from Santo Domingo: just the right distance to get there quickly while staying in a peaceful rural setting, away from the noise and parking difficulties of a historic town centre.
- Central location for day trips: from Tormantos, Haro is 20 minutes away, Ezcaray 30, San Millán 25, Logroño 45. It is the perfect base to explore the whole region without unnecessary driving.
- Space for groups of up to 14 people: 6 bedrooms, each with its own private bathroom. Perfect for large families, groups of friends or parties who want to explore the area together.
- Txoko with fireplace and barbecue: after a day visiting cathedrals, monasteries and wineries, there is nothing better than returning to the txoko, lighting the fireplace and sharing a dinner you have prepared yourselves with produce from the local market.
- Absolute tranquillity: Tormantos is a small Riojan village where you sleep to the silence of the countryside. The contrast between the tourist bustle of the day and the peace of the rural house at night is one of the things our guests value most.